Caribbean for Two
By Michael DeFreitas
Are
the winter doldrums getting you down? Are the bleak skies, short days
and layers of bulky clothing putting a damper on your romance? Maybe it's time to
pack up your swimsuits and sandals, and head for a romantic Caribbean hot spot. With
the region's astonishing diversity, however, picking your dream getaway may be a
bit daunting.
The Bahamas
Situated 50 miles southeast of Florida, the Bahamas encompass some 700 islands
scattered over 100,000 square miles of sparkling turquoise sea. Columbus landed in
these idyllic islands in 1492 and christened them Bajamar (Spanish for “shallow sea”)
after trying to navigate through vast areas of ocean no more than 10 feet deep. Founded
in the 17th century, the country's capital, Nassau, remains an Old World melting
pot of colonial architecture, Victorian mansions, horse-drawn carriages and white-gloved
Bobbies. It's a rich tapestry of British colonial charm that few other Caribbean
destinations can offer—and a wonderful place for couples to share some quality time
together.
Your adventure begins on the quiet waters of Lake Cunningham, where you board
a Maule M7-235 piloted by Capt. Paul Harding of Safari Seaplanes. As the coastline
and the pastel-colored buildings of Nassau slip away below, you catch your first
glimpse of the Exumas. Like a giant emerald necklace, they stretch for miles in the
turquoise sea.
The flight to Allan's Cay takes about an hour, and after landing on the calm water
off the island's leeward coast, Captain Harding beaches the seaplane. As you step
off the plane's pontoon onto the beach, inquisitive, 3-foot-long rock iguanas scurry
down the beach to greet you. As you explore the tiny islet, the playful creatures
follow you around like puppies.
Your next stop is Norman's Cay for an intimate picnic lunch under the whistling
pines that line the beautiful, secluded white-sand beach. After your slice of Bahamas
rum cake, you'll have time for beachcombing or a refreshing swim before hopping back
on board for a thrilling low-level flight to Staniel Cay. The cay is home to the
famous “Thunderball Grotto,” featured in the 1965 James Bond movie thriller Thunderball .
Beams of sunlight, filtering through cracks in the ceiling, dance across the grotto's
blue water, producing a natural movie set perfect for a romantic embrace—or a little
skinny-dipping.
End your day on Cable Beach at one of Nassau's most popular dinner spots, Androsia
Steak and Seafood Restaurant. Starfish and old ship lanterns adorn the walls of this
cozy, elegant restaurant, enhancing an appealing nautical ambience. Celebrities like
Sean Connery, Michael Caine and Julio Iglesias drop by when in town. Although owners
Betty and Siegfried can't guarantee a celebrity sighting, they can promise you an
unforgettable pepper steak au Paris—a New York sirloin served with Dijon mustard,
cracked peppercorns, cream and brandy.
Nassau is one of those charming Caribbean towns that you need to explore slowly.
If you have some extra time, rent a horse-drawn carriage and tour its quiet back
streets in the late afternoon. Stop at the Straw Market to pick out matching hats,
and end your ride with a panoramic view of the town from atop Fort Charlotte.
Panama
Mention Panama and the first thing most people think of is the canal, or the “Big
Ditch,” as the locals call it. What most people don't realize is that Panama is an
eco-traveler's paradise. In an effort to protect the watershed and ensure an ample
supply of fresh water for the canal, the government has designated approximately
25 percent of the country to national parks. Today, Panama has the most protected
land of any Central American country. If you like exploring nature, look no further.
Twenty miles outside Panama City on the Chagras River near Gamboa, you'll meet
your Ancon Expeditions guide and board a small boat named the Endemic. After a quick
briefing, you cruise downriver through the backwaters of the Gaillard Cut to Gatun
Lake. Until Lake Mead's creation by the building of the Hoover Dam in 1936, this
163-square-mile lake was the world's largest man-made body of water. It provides
the water for the locks. Without it there would be no Panama Canal.
Your first stop is one of the islands in the Primate Reserve, where you'll see
white-faced capuchins, red-naped tamarins, and howler and spider monkeys. After your
short rainforest walk, it's off to Monkey Island, where fearless spider monkeys dangle
from low branches, their long arms almost touching the boat's canopy.
After a relaxed picnic lunch on one of the islands, you'll head back to the dock,
then on to Gamboa Rainforest Aerial Tram. In a tropical rainforest, most action takes
place in the canopy high above the forest floor, so Gamboa constructed an aerial
tram—similar to a ski lift—to provide access to this seldom seen part of the forest.
As you glide through the canopy 80 feet above the ground, you'll see tree squirrels
and coatimundi hopping through the branches, slow-moving three-toed sloths, and colorful
parrots.
Round out your day by sharing a Pacific sunset on the seawall at the Plaza de
Francia in Casco Viejo—the historical part of town. Follow sunset with a romantic
dinner at the Restaurante Bar Las Bóvedas. This intimate restaurant is located
in one of the dungeons of a 300-year-old fort, just a short walk from the plaza.
The soft lighting, charming décor, curved stone walls, live jazz quartet and
delightful French menu, featuring such delicacies as confit de canard and fresh grouper
in red sauce, will have you wishing you could be thrown into the dungeon more often.
No visit to Panama would be complete without a good look at the canal, so be sure
to explore the Miraflores Locks or take the Panama Canal Trans-Isthmus Rail Tour.
And consider: Wouldn't the engineering marvel that unites two oceans be an interesting
place to propose?
Aruba
For most people, “the Caribbean” conjures up images of lush green isles edged
with palm-lined beaches. But Aruba is not like other islands. Sure, it has beautiful
palm-lined beaches, but the best way to describe this friendly Dutch island is “Arizona
surrounded by water.” Just the place for a bit of desert adventure.
The best way to explore Aruba's rugged, cactus-studded countryside is by rental
car. A small convertible SUV is the vehicle of choice. Driving is on the right, and
the flat, paved, well-marked roads make it easy to get around. And don't worry about
getting lost: The island is only 19 miles long and 6 miles wide. Start your desert
forays early. Pack only beachwear, snorkeling gear, plenty of sunscreen, hats and
lots of bottled water. Leave your valuables behind.
From the hotel, follow the road signs to Noord and then Paradera, where you'll
see signs pointing the way to the Natural Bridge. The 100-foot rock arch—the Caribbean's
largest natural arch—straddles a secluded cove. It's quite a rush to stand on the
arch as large Caribbean rollers crash through below you. The cove's quiet beach is
just the spot to wash off the road dust. Return the same way you came, but instead
of turning toward Paradera, head for Santa Cruz and follow the signs for Boca Prins.
Six miles east of Santa Cruz is Mount Jamanota, the island's highest point. Drive
to its 620-foot summit and admire the panoramic views before continuing eastward
to the 80-foot-tall Boca Prins sand dunes. If you're lucky, you'll see dune surfers
on modified snowboards, slashing down the sandy slopes. Further on down the coast
is Fontein Cave, where you can search the dimly lit tunnels for 800-year-old petroglyphs.
From the cave, the road hugs the surf-pounded cliffs along the east coast before
descending into Sint Nicolas and your lunch stop at The Promenade Restaurant: Its
grilled chicken breast tropical—served with fresh fruits in a spicy sweet and sour
sauce—defies superlatives.
After lunch, do some snorkeling on nearby Baby Beach. This beach is deserted on
weekdays, and its shallow reefs teem with brightly colorful tang and butterfly fish.
The coast road home passes through Oranjestad, so make a pit stop there at Iguana
Joe's terrace bar for refreshing “pink iguanas” and great views of the harbor.
At the end of the day, treat your palate and soul to lobster enchiladas, Aruba's
best mojitos and the rhythms of a Cuban quartet at the intimate Cuba's Cookin, the
most romantic Cuban restaurant outside Havana.
If you have an extra day, explore Aruba's deep coral reefs in an Atlantis submarine,
glimpse the rare blue morpho butterfly at The Butterfly Farm and share a Caribbean
sunset at the 90-year-old California Lighthouse on the northern tip of the island.
Puerto Rico
Puerto Rico's passionate fusion of American and Latin cultures has earned it the
title “The Isle of Romance.” It's a place of natural beauty and friendly people,
where Latin music echoes from doorways along the narrow cobblestone streets in Old
San Juan.
Modern highways make exploring Puerto Rico by car easy. In contrast to San Juan's
busy traffic, driving in the laid-back countryside, or what the locals call “en la
isla” (out on the island), is hassle-free. But you'll want to start your en la isla
forays early to avoid San Juan's rush hour. Wear sandals, take along some dancing
shoes for your afternoon activity and leave your valuables behind.
Heading west from San Juan, Highway 22 cuts through the verdant farmlands and
pastures of the island's northern coast, ending in Arecibo, where you'll take Highway
134 south to Rio Camuy Cave Park. There, step into the third-largest cave system
in the Western Hemisphere. The 180-foot-high Clara de Empalme Cave, with its giant
stalagmites and stalactites, is the highlight of the tour.
Off Highway 134 on Highway 635 is the Arecibo Observatory, with the world's largest
single-unit radio telescope. The 1,000-foot-diameter reflector monitors space for
radio signals. Interactive exhibits and audiovisual displays there familiarize you
with basic astronomy and the operation of the telescope. A great place for lunch
nearby is El Fogón de Abuela, a few miles west of Arecibo. Owners Andres and
Forangel Guzman prepare mouthwatering stuffed mofongo (mashed plantain casserole
with seafood or meat).
On your way back to San Juan, follow Highway 639 into Dorado. On Main Street behind
the El Almond Tree Cafe, you'll find Rosita & Mariano's Dance Studio. Ladies,
be warned: Rosita is beautiful and vivacious. And guys: Mariano is a charmer. But
in no time they'll have you Latin dancing like Miami pros.
Later that evening, you can feast on duck Magred (duck breast roasted with honey
and served with pumpkin salpicon) at the intimate Trois Cent Onze in the heart of
romantic Old San Juan. After dinner, take a stroll along the Paseo de la Princesa
and pause on one of the benches near the lighted La Princesa Fountain.
Three blocks north of the fountain is the Parrot Club Bistro, where you'll have
an opportunity to tighten the laces on your dancing shoes and try out those new dance
moves. The club's live Latin jazz and salsa music will keep your hips swaying and
your feet shuffling until the wee hours.
Before leaving “la Isla del Romance,” hop the ferry over to the tiny island of
Culebra for a relaxing day on a secluded beach, take a refreshing dip in the pool
below La Mina waterfalls in the Caribbean National Forest and catch one of the Caribbean's
most amazing sunsets at Tres Palmitas Beach.
Writer and photographer Michael DeFreitas swaps his coat and boots for sandals
and scuba gear and escapes to the Caribbean every chance he gets.

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