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Caribbean for Two
By Michael DeFreitas

Aruba HotelsAre the winter doldrums getting you down? Are the bleak skies, short days and layers of bulky clothing putting a damper on your romance? Maybe it's time to pack up your swimsuits and sandals, and head for a romantic Caribbean hot spot. With the region's astonishing diversity, however, picking your dream getaway may be a bit daunting.

 

The Bahamas

Situated 50 miles southeast of Florida, the Bahamas encompass some 700 islands scattered over 100,000 square miles of sparkling turquoise sea. Columbus landed in these idyllic islands in 1492 and christened them Bajamar (Spanish for “shallow sea”) after trying to navigate through vast areas of ocean no more than 10 feet deep. Founded in the 17th century, the country's capital, Nassau, remains an Old World melting pot of colonial architecture, Victorian mansions, horse-drawn carriages and white-gloved Bobbies. It's a rich tapestry of British colonial charm that few other Caribbean destinations can offer—and a wonderful place for couples to share some quality time together.

Your adventure begins on the quiet waters of Lake Cunningham, where you board a Maule M7-235 piloted by Capt. Paul Harding of Safari Seaplanes. As the coastline and the pastel-colored buildings of Nassau slip away below, you catch your first glimpse of the Exumas. Like a giant emerald necklace, they stretch for miles in the turquoise sea.

The flight to Allan's Cay takes about an hour, and after landing on the calm water off the island's leeward coast, Captain Harding beaches the seaplane. As you step off the plane's pontoon onto the beach, inquisitive, 3-foot-long rock iguanas scurry down the beach to greet you. As you explore the tiny islet, the playful creatures follow you around like puppies.

Your next stop is Norman's Cay for an intimate picnic lunch under the whistling pines that line the beautiful, secluded white-sand beach. After your slice of Bahamas rum cake, you'll have time for beachcombing or a refreshing swim before hopping back on board for a thrilling low-level flight to Staniel Cay. The cay is home to the famous “Thunderball Grotto,” featured in the 1965 James Bond movie thriller Thunderball . Beams of sunlight, filtering through cracks in the ceiling, dance across the grotto's blue water, producing a natural movie set perfect for a romantic embrace—or a little skinny-dipping.

End your day on Cable Beach at one of Nassau's most popular dinner spots, Androsia Steak and Seafood Restaurant. Starfish and old ship lanterns adorn the walls of this cozy, elegant restaurant, enhancing an appealing nautical ambience. Celebrities like Sean Connery, Michael Caine and Julio Iglesias drop by when in town. Although owners Betty and Siegfried can't guarantee a celebrity sighting, they can promise you an unforgettable pepper steak au Paris—a New York sirloin served with Dijon mustard, cracked peppercorns, cream and brandy.

Nassau is one of those charming Caribbean towns that you need to explore slowly. If you have some extra time, rent a horse-drawn carriage and tour its quiet back streets in the late afternoon. Stop at the Straw Market to pick out matching hats, and end your ride with a panoramic view of the town from atop Fort Charlotte.

Panama

Mention Panama and the first thing most people think of is the canal, or the “Big Ditch,” as the locals call it. What most people don't realize is that Panama is an eco-traveler's paradise. In an effort to protect the watershed and ensure an ample supply of fresh water for the canal, the government has designated approximately 25 percent of the country to national parks. Today, Panama has the most protected land of any Central American country. If you like exploring nature, look no further.

Twenty miles outside Panama City on the Chagras River near Gamboa, you'll meet your Ancon Expeditions guide and board a small boat named the Endemic. After a quick briefing, you cruise downriver through the backwaters of the Gaillard Cut to Gatun Lake. Until Lake Mead's creation by the building of the Hoover Dam in 1936, this 163-square-mile lake was the world's largest man-made body of water. It provides the water for the locks. Without it there would be no Panama Canal.

Your first stop is one of the islands in the Primate Reserve, where you'll see white-faced capuchins, red-naped tamarins, and howler and spider monkeys. After your short rainforest walk, it's off to Monkey Island, where fearless spider monkeys dangle from low branches, their long arms almost touching the boat's canopy.

After a relaxed picnic lunch on one of the islands, you'll head back to the dock, then on to Gamboa Rainforest Aerial Tram. In a tropical rainforest, most action takes place in the canopy high above the forest floor, so Gamboa constructed an aerial tram—similar to a ski lift—to provide access to this seldom seen part of the forest. As you glide through the canopy 80 feet above the ground, you'll see tree squirrels and coatimundi hopping through the branches, slow-moving three-toed sloths, and colorful parrots.

Round out your day by sharing a Pacific sunset on the seawall at the Plaza de Francia in Casco Viejo—the historical part of town. Follow sunset with a romantic dinner at the Restaurante Bar Las Bóvedas. This intimate restaurant is located in one of the dungeons of a 300-year-old fort, just a short walk from the plaza. The soft lighting, charming décor, curved stone walls, live jazz quartet and delightful French menu, featuring such delicacies as confit de canard and fresh grouper in red sauce, will have you wishing you could be thrown into the dungeon more often.

No visit to Panama would be complete without a good look at the canal, so be sure to explore the Miraflores Locks or take the Panama Canal Trans-Isthmus Rail Tour. And consider: Wouldn't the engineering marvel that unites two oceans be an interesting place to propose?

Aruba

For most people, “the Caribbean” conjures up images of lush green isles edged with palm-lined beaches. But Aruba is not like other islands. Sure, it has beautiful palm-lined beaches, but the best way to describe this friendly Dutch island is “Arizona surrounded by water.” Just the place for a bit of desert adventure.

The best way to explore Aruba's rugged, cactus-studded countryside is by rental car. A small convertible SUV is the vehicle of choice. Driving is on the right, and the flat, paved, well-marked roads make it easy to get around. And don't worry about getting lost: The island is only 19 miles long and 6 miles wide. Start your desert forays early. Pack only beachwear, snorkeling gear, plenty of sunscreen, hats and lots of bottled water. Leave your valuables behind.

From the hotel, follow the road signs to Noord and then Paradera, where you'll see signs pointing the way to the Natural Bridge. The 100-foot rock arch—the Caribbean's largest natural arch—straddles a secluded cove. It's quite a rush to stand on the arch as large Caribbean rollers crash through below you. The cove's quiet beach is just the spot to wash off the road dust. Return the same way you came, but instead of turning toward Paradera, head for Santa Cruz and follow the signs for Boca Prins.

Six miles east of Santa Cruz is Mount Jamanota, the island's highest point. Drive to its 620-foot summit and admire the panoramic views before continuing eastward to the 80-foot-tall Boca Prins sand dunes. If you're lucky, you'll see dune surfers on modified snowboards, slashing down the sandy slopes. Further on down the coast is Fontein Cave, where you can search the dimly lit tunnels for 800-year-old petroglyphs.

From the cave, the road hugs the surf-pounded cliffs along the east coast before descending into Sint Nicolas and your lunch stop at The Promenade Restaurant: Its grilled chicken breast tropical—served with fresh fruits in a spicy sweet and sour sauce—defies superlatives.

After lunch, do some snorkeling on nearby Baby Beach. This beach is deserted on weekdays, and its shallow reefs teem with brightly colorful tang and butterfly fish. The coast road home passes through Oranjestad, so make a pit stop there at Iguana Joe's terrace bar for refreshing “pink iguanas” and great views of the harbor.

At the end of the day, treat your palate and soul to lobster enchiladas, Aruba's best mojitos and the rhythms of a Cuban quartet at the intimate Cuba's Cookin, the most romantic Cuban restaurant outside Havana.

If you have an extra day, explore Aruba's deep coral reefs in an Atlantis submarine, glimpse the rare blue morpho butterfly at The Butterfly Farm and share a Caribbean sunset at the 90-year-old California Lighthouse on the northern tip of the island.

Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico's passionate fusion of American and Latin cultures has earned it the title “The Isle of Romance.” It's a place of natural beauty and friendly people, where Latin music echoes from doorways along the narrow cobblestone streets in Old San Juan.

Modern highways make exploring Puerto Rico by car easy. In contrast to San Juan's busy traffic, driving in the laid-back countryside, or what the locals call “en la isla” (out on the island), is hassle-free. But you'll want to start your en la isla forays early to avoid San Juan's rush hour. Wear sandals, take along some dancing shoes for your afternoon activity and leave your valuables behind.

Heading west from San Juan, Highway 22 cuts through the verdant farmlands and pastures of the island's northern coast, ending in Arecibo, where you'll take Highway 134 south to Rio Camuy Cave Park. There, step into the third-largest cave system in the Western Hemisphere. The 180-foot-high Clara de Empalme Cave, with its giant stalagmites and stalactites, is the highlight of the tour.

Off Highway 134 on Highway 635 is the Arecibo Observatory, with the world's largest single-unit radio telescope. The 1,000-foot-diameter reflector monitors space for radio signals. Interactive exhibits and audiovisual displays there familiarize you with basic astronomy and the operation of the telescope. A great place for lunch nearby is El Fogón de Abuela, a few miles west of Arecibo. Owners Andres and Forangel Guzman prepare mouthwatering stuffed mofongo (mashed plantain casserole with seafood or meat).

On your way back to San Juan, follow Highway 639 into Dorado. On Main Street behind the El Almond Tree Cafe, you'll find Rosita & Mariano's Dance Studio. Ladies, be warned: Rosita is beautiful and vivacious. And guys: Mariano is a charmer. But in no time they'll have you Latin dancing like Miami pros.

Later that evening, you can feast on duck Magred (duck breast roasted with honey and served with pumpkin salpicon) at the intimate Trois Cent Onze in the heart of romantic Old San Juan. After dinner, take a stroll along the Paseo de la Princesa and pause on one of the benches near the lighted La Princesa Fountain.

Three blocks north of the fountain is the Parrot Club Bistro, where you'll have an opportunity to tighten the laces on your dancing shoes and try out those new dance moves. The club's live Latin jazz and salsa music will keep your hips swaying and your feet shuffling until the wee hours.

Before leaving “la Isla del Romance,” hop the ferry over to the tiny island of Culebra for a relaxing day on a secluded beach, take a refreshing dip in the pool below La Mina waterfalls in the Caribbean National Forest and catch one of the Caribbean's most amazing sunsets at Tres Palmitas Beach.

Writer and photographer Michael DeFreitas swaps his coat and boots for sandals and scuba gear and escapes to the Caribbean every chance he gets.

Aruba Destination Information and Travel Guide
Tuesday
30°/28°
A few tstorms. Morning clouds. Warm.
Wednesday
31°/28°
More sun than clouds. Warm.
Thursday
31°/27°
Widely scattered tstorms. More sun than clouds. Wa

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About
Aruba


Aruba may be the smallest of the ABC Islands, but its southwest coast is a tourist favorite, thanks to white sand beaches, aquamarine waters, and vibrant casinos. Stirred by trade winds, the air is clean, dry, and temperate, with a daily average of 82 degrees.

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